White Gold, Platinum, and wonderful Colors!

What Type of metal should i go for?
There are tons of different kinds of metals, most commonly used is 18kt white gold or Platinum.
Others like Yellow gold, Rosegold are great as well, however it's more trendy these days to add bits and portions of it rather than the entire ring.

Ultimately, it depends on the design, and your personal preference. As always, do check if the user is allergic to Nickel based metals. Some people are, and the last thing you want to happen is to propose and have her fingers begin to swell/itch :(

White Gold Vs Platinum

Before considering any of them, refer to the above, and check if the user has any allergy to white gold:)

1. Allergy
Some people are allergic to nickel based metals, and that entirely rules out gold in general. An alternative is to request your jeweler to use palladium instead of nickel as the alloy for white gold. It's slightly more expensive, but still lower than what platinum costs:)

That's not me but personally, i'm allergic myself, somehow

developed only after a few years of wearing, i do have a slight case of eczema since young though

2. "Look" & "Feel" of white gold vs platinum

A Rhodium plated White gold (it always almost is everywhere) have very little difference in terms of initial look vs Platinum. Platinum may look very slightly darker. To me, white gold looks alot whiter.

Overtime:

White gold would fade into a slight yellow tinge(Rhodium plating fade) and would need to be re plated every 18-20 months or so to return it to it's former glory.

Platinum would fade to a dull grey platina and needs to be repolished into it's former glory.

"Feel":

Platinum is heavier than white gold, and some people prefer to feel the wei

ght on their fingers.

3. Design

In most cases, both can fulfill most kinds of designs, really complex and intricate designs like :

Filigree, and complex details is easier and made better on platinum.

4. Cost

Generally, platinum costs 2-2.5 times more than white gold. If a simple solitaire costs $700, a platinum one would cost about $1,500 depending on the ring size since the weight is taken into consideration as well. Is the price justifiable? That's entirely up to you! If you can afford it, go for it. Some people rather spend the difference on a better diamond.

Dawn, Why does my ring feel so light compared to some other jewelers that provide the exact same design?

Some jewelers want to save weight and cost of their settings. Cutting out hollow portions in the ring strategically. It really depends on how much they charge you, some are notorious for saving on the weight AS WELL as charging the same price of a full weight. If they charge you cheaper, and you're okay with it, then that's still acceptable:)

Rose Gold & Yellow Gold

Isn't that totally gorgeous? Be very wary when using rose gold as a part of your design, i would not recommend the tray, as the diamond would reflect the color outwards, and the centre piece may not look as white as it should. Rose gold is gorgeous when set together with fancy pink diamonds. The color of the pink diamonds is able to reflect the full color of the rose gold and enhance it's natural pink:)

The same goes for yellow gold, remember not to set it as the prongs or the tray, the diamond(especially if your centrepiece is a high D,E,F,G color) would reflect the yellow tinge.

Just like rose gold, fancy yellow diamonds are great to set in yellow gold as part of the design!

Simply gorgeous don't you think?

Fancy Shapes - For the Adventurous!

Princess:

One of the favourite for square cuts. There are quite a few things to look out for in a princess cut. The basic would be:

Table

62%-68%(i prefer a larger table size, but it's really preference here.)

Depth

64%-75%

Symmetry

Excellent-VG

Length to Width Ratio

As close to 1 as possible. 0.95-1.05

Chevrons:

The number of chevrons at the pavilion affects the performance of the princess cut diamond. Ideally, I would only pick 3-4 chevrons. 2 is too little.Drop me an email at Dawnandbrianmin@hotmail.com if you need help identifying the number of chevrons, but a general guideline would be:

Settings that goes great with Princess cuts:

When should you buy a princess cut: If you're looking into something more different, and still want something as brilliant as rounds, if you love 4 prongs and feel it's more suitable on a princess cut. Because you love princesses!

Asscher:

Asscher is square step cut diamond.

A step cut diamond has sloping, four-sided facets that are cut below the table and run parallel to the diamond's girdle.

Because of the way it is cut, it is not as brilliant as a princess cut. However, people do like it for it’s simplicity.

Generally, this cut will always appear smaller than most shapes.

Because of this, this cut is popular also amongst men.

Some general guidelines for this cut:

Minimum clarity: VS1 (Because of the way it is cut, inclusions are much more obvious as compare to rounds or princess cuts)

Minimum color: G (Same as the above, a step cut diamond does not mask its true color as well as a brilliant cut diamond)

Table

60%-65.5%

Depth

60%-65%

Symmetry / polish

Excellent-VG

Length to Width Ratio

As close to 1

Settings that goes great with Asscher cuts:

When should you buy an Asscher: When you're a man! haha! When you love the facet pattern. If you like a strong looking ring with sidestones. If you love asscher settings! Theres many settings that asscher can go with which are so lovely. The contrast between brilliant sidestones and a centre step cut is great!

Heart!

Look out for the lobes on the diamond. Make sure it is symmetrically balanced.

A cleft that is not too deep and not too shallow. A sharp cleft is preferred.

One should look out for a bow tie effect across the centre width of the diamond. Such effect will allow light leakage.
Overall the shape of the heart is important still, some are fat, some are long, a shape like the above is hey okay!

Table

55%-60%

Depth

59%-63%

Symmetry / polish

Excellent-VG

Length to Width Ratio

As close to 1

Settings that goes well with Heart:

When to buy a Heart shape? When you're truly a romantic!

Marquise!

A boat shaped brilliant cut diamond. This shape shows more color and inclusion than other brilliant cut. The marquise is great to elongate your fingers because of it's shape, it creates a really elegant overall outlook!:)

Minimum clarity: VS2

Minimum color: H

The bow tie effect is very prominent in a marquis shape diamond as well. It is visible to the naked eye.

Table

55%-60%

Depth

59%-63%

Symmetry / polish

Excellent - vg

Length to Width Ratio

As close to 2

Settings that goes well with Marquis:

When to buy a Marquise shape? When you have long slim fingers, and like something out of the ordinary

Oval

Both the Oval and Marquis cut diamonds are both great for slim-long finger as its appearance further elongates the finger. This creates a whole elegant out look :)

Do avoid shallow or deep parameter for this diamond as bow tie effect can be obvious.

Table

55%-60%

Depth

59%-63%

Symmetry / polish

Excellent - vg

Length to Width Ratio

As close to 1.5

Settings that goes with Oval:

Pear

The pointed end of the Pear cut should be well protected by a nice prong as it can be easily chip off. Just like several others, Pear shapes are very prone to bowtie effects and is especially obvious with lower colors! go for a higher color one:)

Pears are also known as teardrops, i love pear shapes!

Table

55%-60%

Depth

59%-63%

Symmetry / polish

Excellent - vg

Length to Width Ratio

As close to 1.6

Setting that goes with Pear(was trying to find one with pear sidestones as well, but couldn't... i've seen it somewhere before its so lovely) :

notice the bowtie here? that black portion running through the diamond?

When to buy a Pear shape? If you love teardrops, Pear shapes were commonly found on Tiaras of princesses, I feel it exhumes alot of "vintageness". Always acompany it with sidestones

Emerald:

A step cut diamond like the asscher cut. It is rectangular in shape. A strict parameter is needed to make purchases for this cut as a Emerald cut requires a good length to width ratio.An Aset scope is great to filter out good emerald cuts, find a jeweler that carries one!

Table

60%-65.5%

Depth

60%-65%

Symmetry / polish

Excellent - vg

Length to Width Ratio

As close to 1.6

Settings that goes with Emerald:

When to buy a Emerald shape? If you love step cuts, emeralds look strong and sturdy. It show's off the independant woman:)


CUSHIONS! MY FAVORITE

I think alot of people are missing out, people call these pillow shapes as well. I think it's the classiest of all the shapes. Stand alone cushions don't do very well, but because of it's shape, the settings that go along with it are wonderfully scrumptious.

There are several cuts of modified cushions, i personally feel the modern cushioin cut is the best, ask your jeweler if it's an old cushion or modern cut! :)

Table

60%-65.5%

Depth

60%-65%

Symmetry / polish

Excellent - vg

Length to Width Ratio

As close to 1.6

Settings that goes well with Cushion:

When to buy a Cushion shape? If want a really lovely design, it's my all time favorite with almost anything! Halos, double prongs, paves, colored diamonds etc etc!


Okay Dawn, so this is a general guideline, is this possible to get?

It's rather hard to obtain fancies in Singapore, especially good ones since these are more popular in the states, still, it is possible, there are several jewelers in singapore that do try to bring in fancies, but not many. Sometimes you may have to compromise a lil. Fancy shapes are best seen in person and not using exact dimensions. However this general guideline will at least shorten your list for the in experienced to know what an ideal fancy should be. Sometimes you may find that "oh! the table on this one is a little bigger, it's 1% off" Certain situations it's quite acceptable. Drop me an email if you encounter something like this, and i'll try my best to help ya out.

Dawnandbrianmin@hotmail.com

Until my next post! cya!

CLARITY, What's GOOD and What's NOT

CLARITY
Here is a brief summary,

When Purchasing a VVS1 or VVS2, You're in the safe zone. Chances are you're not going to be able to find anything with the trained eye even with more than a x10 loupe!The danger comes when purchasing a VS1-VS2. let's not talk about SI and below, I always feel as a consumer you should keep to VS2 as the minimum, especially as a proposal ring. SI and below is alright as earrings and pendants.VS1-VS2 also gives the greatest value for money. The price drops quite drastically in this region and if you're able to find a good one, 3 cheers for you! In this category, the degree of inclusions varies ALOT.
From really good ones to horrible VS2s that look so much similar to a SI grade. Finding the best one will help you save a ton of money, and of course a much cleaner diamond:)


On Your Certificate you will find the Type of inclusion here.

There are many different kinds, and i will go from the best to the worst. I'll rank it from 1-10, 1 being the worst, 10 being the best

1.) Crystals, Needles, Clouds, PinPoints(Good, nothing to worry)


Crystals are more or less, small diamonds which are trapped in your diamond. They come as white or black pinpoints. Some people feel black crystals are "bad luck", Some feel the dark black spot is annoying. So best when looking out to purchase a diamond which writes any of the above, check to see if it is white or black. White being better of course!

Crystals can come as:

Pinpoint 9/10 - Probably the best that a diamond inclusion can get, most of the time it comes as a white tiny little dot which is hardly visible even under a microscope

Cloud 9/10 - Tiny several pinpoints make up a cloud inclusion. Sometimes a cloud can cover quite a large portion, but when looking at VVS1-VS2, chances are you will hardly notice it as well. But just in case check with your jeweler(if you're purchasing a VS2) where the cloud inclusion is, if it is a small portion, you're good to go, if it covers 1/3 of the diamond and is extremely noticeable you might want to take a pass!
Crystal 8/10 - As above

Needle 8/10 - Is a long thin diamond crystal, in most cases comes as white in color. Nothing much to worry about

2.) Chips
As the word describes it, chips are chipped off areas in a diamond. May vary alot in degree and should be taken into account if purchasing a VS2. Make sure that the chip is not along the girdle or near the culet. If not over time your diamond may be prone to being damaged, and will require repolishing, causing a significant loss in weight of the diamond!

Chips 6/10

3.) Feathers



Feathers are "cracks" / "Lines" / "fractures". Feathers are dangerous when considering a VS1-VS2. Always make sure the feather is not located near the girdle or the your diamond may be prone to being damaged.

Feathers- 3/10(Positioned at girdle) 7/10(Positioned closer towards the centre)

4.) Surface / Internal graining

As the name suggests, These are caused by a change in direction of the grains in a diamond to create an extremely faint series of lines.

Nothing to worry about these. Sometimes it m Nay be stated as "Surface/Internal graining is not shown" Not to be alarmed. These kind of inclusions are only visible to some people, under high magnification and when viewed from certain angles. The degree of such inclusions can be quite drastic sometimes. If it stretches over a large portion of the diamond, you might want to think twice!

Surface/Internal Graining - 8/10

In Conclusion, Try your best to keep your Purchases to VVS1-VS2. IF(Internal Flawless) is quite unecessary, due to the fact there is such a HUGE price jump and is so similar to a VVS1.

VS1-VS2 makes the best buys, but you need to be wary and ask your jeweler to show you the degree of the inclusions and the type.

VVS1-VVS2 may be bought safely without worrying about the degree of inclusions.

Soliataire Designs, What's IN and What's OUT

Double Claw Prong: IN!

Leon Mege is famous for his double claw prongs, which looks like a claw of a bird. These kind of prongs are really hot at the moment, as it allows the centre stone to appear elevated and stand out.

Elegance: 9

X Factor: 10

Safety: 8

Dawn's opinion: 9

Tiffany Classic: IN!

Still timeless! It's the most basic design out there in the market when it comes to proposal rings. Really nice setting for a really well cut round brilliant. Centrestone is extremely elevated to make the diamond appear even bigger. Don't spoil it with sidestones!

Elegance: 9

X Factor: 2

Safety: 9

Dawn's opinion: 8

U Prong: IN!

Kinda old fashioned for me, but still girls love it. Prongs are meant to look "flowy" and "elegant". Most of these designs are accompanied with sidestones to blend the flavors. Without sidestones you're better off with the tiffany setting, to keep it plain and simple! There are 2 kinds of these, one which elevates the diamond and one which allows the diamond to sit more into the ring.

Elegance: 8

X Factor: 5

Safety: 7

Dawn's opinion: 7

The Halo: IN!

Halo's has been around for ages! It used to be a common practice of older people wearing halo rings, however these days many younger couples are taking on the trend for various reasons: Illusion of a bigger centerstone, increasing the "bling" of your setting, it's old vintage classy look.

I'm quite a fan of halo rings and the recent comeback really makes me happy!

Elegance: 9

X Factor: 4

Safety: 9

Dawn's opinion: 8

Tension rings: OUT!

When Tension rings first came out, it was quite a big hit, being new and innovative and all. However, the lack of elevation / safety and little justice to diamond makes it one of the less popular designs these days. Also, these does not really scream "MARRY ME!". Not advisable as a proposal ring, a basic gift to a girlfriend/friend is alright if you don't really want to look too "proposal"

Elegance: 4

X Factor: 3

Safety: 4

Dawn's opinion: 2

Full/Half Bezel rings: OUT!

No no no... This is just wrong. Bezels for earrings and pendants are still quite alright, for a ring there is possibly a million nicer settings out there. Only use IF you are purchasing a real bad SI diamond and you'd like to conceal the corner inclusions, if not i'd definitely stay away.

Elegance: 2

X Factor: 1

Safety: 9

Dawn's opinion: 1

4 prongs vs 6 prongs

This is really up to preference, sometimes 4 prongs may cause a round brilliant to appear a little squarish. A 6 prong is safer, but the number of claws may kind of cover quite a fair portion of the diamond, a 4 prong definitely shows off a diamond more.

Sidestones or no Sidestones?

If you can't check with your lady cause it's a surprise, look into her personality!

Does she like flashy/cute/pretty stuff? Then you're looking more into a ring with sidestones on the band and maybe even on the prongs itself.

Is she more into elegance, simplicity and is not really designer oriented? Then you're looking more into a plain simple ring.

Dawn, those sidestones look sooooo EXPENSIVE, how much are they?

Most sidestone diamonds use 1-2 pointer diamonds, which would cost you around SGD$800-900 per carat. Sidestones which travel halfway round the band would use about 12 to 15 diamonds. 15 x 0.02 = 0.3. 0.3 x 900 = $270- $300 more.

It's not really as expensive as you think! $300 more to really bling up your ring:)

Websites with really nice designs to look at:

www.danhov.com

www.artofplatinum.com

www.briangavindiamonds.com

www.damiani.com

www.tacori.com

Color - D? E? F? G???

No, there is no ABC!

The whitest a diamond can get is D.


"Dawn I'm clueless what color i should get for my proposal ring!"
The standard proposal ring is using 18kt white gold or Platinum. Some girls like Yellow gold. So what diamond color is suitable for what ring color?

(Applicable for ideal cut diamonds)
White Gold / Platinum - D, E, F ,G, H(This is the bare minimum my eyes can take)
Yellow Gold - I, J,K,L,M

If you have a low colored diamond, say a K color on a white gold/platinum setting, the contrast between your diamond and the ring would cause your diamond to stand out very yellowish. This looks extremely ugly.

However, Low colored diamonds are suitable for yellow gold. The colors between the diamond and the band is blended, and makes the diamond less yellow than it actually is!

How Cut & Shape affects the diamond color

Super ideal / Ideal cuts, make diamond's yellow tinge less obvious than a poor cut diamond because of it's greater light return and scintillation. So if say your diamond is not such a well cut one, your tolerance for white gold should be higher than H color. Go for a G minimum.

Fancy shapes tend to also look more yellowish when it's in the lower colors due to their nature of poorer light return and scintillation.

"Why is my diamond slightly brownish and not slightly yellowish???"

Look at these 2 diamonds I took a picture of... Both AGS Certified (Same Issue with GIA) Both Ideal Cut, H Color, VS1. Carat size 0.43 and 0.37 Here's the thing, They are both different colored! One is Greyish Brown(looks obviously darker and uglier), One is Faint yellow....

color is based off: Hue & Tone Hue is one of the main properties of a color, the degree to which a stimulus can be described as similar to or different from stimuli that are described as red, green, blue, and yellow. Tone is the lightness or darkness of a color. So now, there are yellow, brown, grey even pinkish diamonds which can fall under the GIA category of H color, some of you who have bought H and below might be even holding onto a brown diamond. If Diamonds are graded with HUE, Why is it that we can still find other colored diamonds graded as H?

The problem with the diamond grading system... is the fact that every diamond is graded upon it's TONE. The lightness and darkness of the diamond, not on it's color. So lets say.... H light yellow tinge .......H Light brown tinge I Slightly yellowish tinge........ I Slightly brownish tinge J Moderate yellowish tinge..... J Moderate brownish tinge K Yellowish tinge........ K brownish tinge Get what i mean? Next you'll ask,

"Dawn, then why can't they factor in colors which look more horrible?"


Gemologists from gia and ags argue the fact, is a Fancy colored Blue diamond or a Pink diamond nicer? It's to each person's preference of course. So how can we say a Brown diamond is worse than a yellow one?

Rule of the thumb is that a yellowish diamond goes well with yellow gold a brownish diamond goes well with rose gold and a grey diamond with white gold pink diamond with..... hmmm pink gold? (it is possible... less copper in the alloy produces a pinkish tone to the gold)
The Problem

But in the diamond market, anything besides a yellowish tinge diamond is always cheaper than normal... but lots of retailers sell it at the same price! Do consumers have the right to know? Of course! but in the first place, those salesmen and saleslady at that specific shop, do you think they even know much about diamonds? They're there to tell you the basic 4 C's. And smile. And collect your money. And wave Sometimes even the Bosses don't even know this, with an exception of a few good jewelers in Singapore.

How do you know that your diamond is a brown diamond? with untrained eyes it's very hard... but having a good jeweler and recommendations from friends helps you get on the right track. Even some brands... reputable brands are ignorant of this fact. Like someone mentioned this before on this forum, diamonds are for the mathematical, technical, knowledgeable and romantic diamonds are not like clothes. Branded clothes speak for itself. Unless of course you don't mind buying a diamond for the sake of it and not knowing what you're buying, 3/4 of the jewelery industry are like this. And that is why the market is known for such huge profit margins.

FLUORESCENCE

The Bad Effect( blue fluor)
Fluorescence causes Colorless Diamonds such as D,E,F,G,H to look appear more "cloudy"(Stay away!)

The Good Effect ( blue fluor)
Fluorescence causes Low Colored Diamonds such as I,J,K,L,M to appear less yellow! The tinge counter balances the yellowish effect, causing the diamond to appear whiter! (Worth considering)

Fluorescence may also come in a yellow tinge, on the certificate it would be stated as; fluorescence: slight/medium/strong yellow(Stay away!). Causes a greater yellow tinge to the diamond